Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Princes' Islands - escape the big city

Published in the Turkish Daily News http://www.turkishdailynews.com.tr/article.php?enewsid=81732

One of the easiest and cheapest ways to escape the crowded streets and traffic jams of Istanbul is a trip to the Princes' Islands. It costs only YTL 2 each way. The ferries used to leave from Sirkeci near Eminönü, but now they leave from Kabataş near Dolmabahçe Palace.
They stop at Kadıkoy on the Asian side of Istanbul, as well as all four islands. From Kabataş to Büyükada, the last and biggest of the islands, takes about two hours. At most times of the year I enjoy the ferry ride as much as my afternoon on the islands. The view is fantastic and I like to have lunch in the cafeteria on the way. Often there are friendly people to talk to.
Between June and September, however, I prefer the catamaran (deniz otobüsü), called the “fast ferry.” This also leaves from Kabataş but does not stop at Kadıkoy. It costs YTL 5.5 each way. Although the price is higher, I use this service in the summer because it is less crowded, air-conditioned, and much quicker. From Kabataş to Büyükada takes about 45 minutes.
The “slow” ferries are very crowded in the summer. Many people cannot get seats and have to stand or sit on the floor.
Some people can be very selfish about seats. I have seen them reserving seats for people who are never there, or from Kabataş for people who are going to get on in Kadıköy 15 minutes later. This kind of behavior makes everybody feel angry and there are often arguments. The fast ferry does not take more people on board than the number of seats it has.
I also prefer the catamaran in the summer because I like to swim, and the time saved gives me an extra two hours in the water.
There are no cars on the islands, only phaetons and bicycles. These can be hired and the bicycles are cheap. Normally I go to Heybeliada, home of the Turkish Naval Academy. I enjoy walking around the island and swimming at the back where there are small beaches and not many people.
Sometimes I go to Burgazada, a high island, which has fantastic views of the Marmara Sea and Anatolia. Both islands have a lot of nice cafes at the front, facing the Asian side of Istanbul. They are a nice place to finish the visit, while waiting for the ferry back to the big city.